7.38. Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Hans Florine is a professional climber, writer, photographer, and outdoor guide who holds numerous speed records in outdoor climbing, from sport routes to alpine ascents. Kaplina reached the top of a 15-metre-high (49-foot) wall in 6,964 seconds, becoming the second woman in the history of the sport to climb the course in less than seven seconds. Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. © 1996-2015 National Geographic Society, © 2015- Itâs nice to know he probably wonât fall during a route, whether itâs 5.9 or 5.11+. When did you start working on this project? Companies / manufacturer of certified Speed world record equipment. Our method was dangerous, but we could have dialed it back at any point. We got the speed record yesterday at 2:19:44! Sweet shot by @_drew_smith_ P.S Jim and I broke into the 2:20s on the Nose today with a time of 2:29:39, A post shared by Brad Gobright (@bradgobright) on Oct 18, 2017 at 6:27pm PDT. Austrian mountaineer Christian Stangl has claimed a new speed record for climbing 18,506-foot Mt. Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell introduce us to one of the most coveted prizes in the climbing world: the speed record on The Nose route up the 915m El Capitan in Yosemite, California. We really relied on free-climbing and avoided questionable gear. And she did it with a broken finger. Just before dawn on Saturday, Gobright started up the wall, followed by Reynolds. Whatâs next? Ekaterina Barashchuk took gold over Elizaveta Ivanova. Marcin Dzienski took the bronze medal, winning the small final in 5.596 seconds for a new men’s European record. Every season Iâve been in the [Yosemite] Valley, Iâve sought new adventures. The Indonesian beat the previous record holder Yi Ling Song of China in the … BG: The âBoot Flake.â It's super runoutâfalling there would mean death. Who: Hans Florine and Peter Croft. The first speed ascent of the route was set in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay, with a time of 17 hours and 45 minutes. Climbers Crush 'Unbeatable' Speed Record on El Capitan, https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/speed-record-climb-yosemite-el-capitan-the-nose-honnold.html, the first and only climber to free solo El Capitan. Aries Susanti Rahayu has set a new speed climbing world record. Honnold and climbing partner Hans Florine held the previous speed record for the route at 2:23:46. InternatIonal FederatIon oF Sport Climbing www.ifsc-climbing.org!! Itâs steep and sustained, so we couldnât rest. Climbing the âStovelegsâ was exhausting, too. We marked some holds with chalk, did slower runs to dial in [the most challenging] crux sections, and studied videos of previous ascents. The holds are designed so that climbers can grab onto specific areas according to their strengths and needs, and so that they function for both hands and feet. Aid-climbing is part of my skillset, so I took the lead on those sections. No Joke. Yūji Hirayama benötigte, zusammen mit Hans Florine, im Jahr 2002 die Zeit von 2:48:55 für die Durchsteigung der Wand. Reza went on to the final where he won Gold in the event taking 5.54 seconds which also beat the previous World Record but not his new one. Kaplina has set the speed record multiple times. The last time she held the record was in 2017 until in April of that year YiLing Song got 7.101 seconds at the IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing. BG: It came down to extreme detail on certain moves and gear placements. She set a new world record in her qualification round win, with a time of 6.964 seconds. âIt feels good to be a part of that piece of Yosemite history,â he says. The pair broke the previous record, set in 2010 by Dean Potter and Sean Leary, by almost 13 minutes. GPS technology, however, can be fraught with errors. Unless we were on a difficult section, we kept a ton of slack in the rope. Which sections were the toughest for each of you? JR: We started trying in the spring of 2016. Elbrus, Europe’s highest peak. The Rostrum is my all time favorite free solo. I want to focus on hard free-climbing. Stangl raced up the mountain in 5 hours 18 minutes, starting from the Azau ski area at 7,150 feet—that’s more than 2,100 vertical feet an hour, the first two-thirds on skis and the rest with crampons. We made a great team, so we set a huge challenge. She was climbing next to Patrycja Chudziak of Poland and both were aiming to get to the finals. Later, the two would complete this route in record-breaking time. Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright complete a speed climb up the Nose on El Capitan. What was the last thing you did on the ground before starting your climb? I led the first half of the climb and Jim led the second half. The routes are arranged west to east, that is from the West Face to the East Buttress. For me, parts of the âGreat Roof,â âPancake Flake,â and âGlowering Spotâ were the most physically demanding. The route begins at the foot of El Capitan and follows the center prow 2,900 vertical feet to the wallâs tip. For about 85 percent of it, if one of us fell, we could have been seriously injured or killed. As far as the future, I have a few big-wall free-climbing goals planned. Published. World record lists for rope climb. Howâd you tackle the climb? It's a steep and splitter wide hand crack just to the right of the original corner. BG: By the end of last fall, we knew we could possibly get it this season, which added to our stress. . BG: We're both pretty bold, but we also know our limits and when to draw the line. 1992 – The benchmark. 22nd July 2017. JR: âHardâ comes in a few varieties up there: scary stuff, time-consuming stuff, and physical challenges. Did you tweak it during practice? 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Watch Iuliia Kaplina breaking the Speed Climbing Record. Iuliia Kaplina has set the speed record multiple times - sometimes overtaking herself without competition. Over the following decades, the record was broken 18 times, often by some of the most respected big-wall specialists of their generations. He soloed the 13-pitch route in 34 minutes and 51 seconds, beating out the late Brad Gobright’s record by nearly four minutes. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) - The World Games 2017, Wroclaw, Poland . For big-wall climbers, El Capitan in Yosemite National Park is the most famous piece of rock on Earth. I was lured in by the speed record because it was such a different type of challenge. This time, Honnold returned to El Capitan to climb the nose and regain the speed record. We just sprawled out for a few minutes without speaking. Iranian climber Reza Alipour Shenazandifar, nicknamed The Asiatic Cheetah, set the world 15m record of 5.48s in April of 2017. Dabei geht es darum, im Toprope gesichert in möglichst kurzer Zeit eine vorgegebene Route zu erklettern. Last week, Alex Honnold reported that he has broken the speed record on Epinephrine (5.9), a 13-pitch route in Red Rock, Nevada. 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. By the end of fall 2016, our best time was below three hoursâI felt like that was a lifetime accomplishment, but we agreed to try again in 2017. 30th April 2017 . Previous Women's World Records . Record name Record Owner Nation Date Ref First climbers confirmed as having reached the summit Summited Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay New Zealand, Nepal, May 29, 1953: First woman to summit once Summited Junko Tabei Japan May 16, 1975 First Man to summit twice 2 Nawang Gombu Nepal 1963, 1965 Any nerves as you approached the base of the Nose? I returned to Yosemite in April, put in some relaxed laps, and those helped me learn the routeâs intricacies. BG: I'm not going to try againâit's really dangerous. Alex Honnold solos the Nose on El Capitan in California's Yosemite National Park. I play the mandolin, too. âWe had discussed bailing that morning,â says Reynolds. BG: We were nervous because a week earlier, our friend Quinn took a big fall on the route and got very injured. Usually, 80 percent of the climbers on the Nose are Europeans. Some experts linked this activity to horizontal level walking and running wherein the higher the velocity, the shorter is the contact time and the higher are the reaction forces. Time: 4h 22m. PREPARED BY IFSC Sport Department . On Saturday, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds scaled its most iconic route, the Nose, in 2:19:44, breaking the 2012 speed record set by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by nearly four minutes. I'm stoked to pour some energy that direction. The women's bronze went to Iuliia Kaplina of Russia. During a later ascent of this same route, Reynolds and Gobright would beat Alex Honnold and Hans Florine's speed record. Talented pups skip rope and study math, No more anti-maskers! We took a selfie, posted it on Facebook, and hiked back down. JR: Brad is an animal, especially at free-climbing. In this final section our stoke was high as we knew we had it in the bag! Naturally, I give a little extra attention to the greatest rock climbing route in the world. CURRENT WORLD RECORD: Women's 15m Speed. What did you guys do on top after Brad tagged the tree? BG: Same as always: we asked some Europeans if we could go first. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. The psychological crux was the âLynn Hill Traverse.â There was tons of slack in the rope and I hadnât clipped any gear; it would have been a 150-foot fall. In the finals, Kaplina took bronze over Aleksandra Kalucka of Poland. Most climbers considered Honnold and Florineâs time unbeatable. Women's speed climbing record was smashed. We only climbed as fast as we could safely justify. Brad Gobright: I like setting goals that are way beyond my reach then practicing until they become possible. In April 2019, YiLing Song from China set the women’s record … 29/04/14 IFSC Speed License Rules - Page!2!on!32 ! 7.10. After a bit, I texted Hans and Honnoldâthey were psyched. I've descended El Cap so many times ⦠now I'm going to do some mountain biking and safe climbing. An incredible feat achieved in the semi-final against Bassa Mawem of France. Eventually we settled on doing long runouts, so we practiced the dangerous sections until we could do them safely. It seemed so beyond impossible that weâd joke, "if Dean [Potter] can do it, we can do it." 6.99. Die Huberbuam … A couple cool shots taken by @christian_cattell of @chimney_jim and I on the last hundred feet of the Nose. Aries Susanti Rahayu has set a new speed climbing world record. Taking part in the qualification … Reza Alipour Shenazandifard (Persian: رضا علیپور شنازندی فرد , born 29 َApril 1994) is an Iranian speed climber from Qazvin.He is titled the Asiatic cheetah (Genius) and the "Vertical World's Fastest Man." Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964) is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valleys El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. 1998:13,8 km@8,1%---36:20---average speed 22.79 km/h(Marco Pantani)-RECORD ---36:33---average speed 22.65 km/h(Tonkov-Zulle) ... Search for a climb/rider. 26th April 2019. Iâm more of an all-arounder. Do you think youâll try to break your own record? For four years he served as the executive director … Russia’s Yulia Kaplina set a new world record at the ongoing International Federation of Sport Climbing's (IFSC) European Championships in Moscow on Saturday. The Nose was the first route Jim and I ever did together. We also avoided using cams and nuts [protective gear], and only added one sling. Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds climb the final section of the Nose during their record-breaking El Capitan ascent. JR: No crying or hugging, but I screamed a bit. The … Rahayu set a new women's speed climbing record at 6.995 seconds, also being the first woman to break the 7 second mark. That made her only the second female under 7 seconds in the sport. And I may have done some dry heaving. This competition marked Iran’s first IFSC Gold medal. And he doesnât do anything that could kill us. Who's a clever dog? Also, none of the climbers used alternate, objective, time-verification methods, such as GPS technology. Its nice to run a quick lap on it when I'm going into or out of The Valley. Gobright, a professional climber, and Reynolds, a member of the Yosemite Search and Rescue team, began working the Nose together in spring of 2016. Auch Speed-Climber entdeckten The Nose. Russian climbing queen Iuliia Kaplina proved she could easily give Spiderman a run (or perhaps a climb) for his money as she broke the women’s world speed record at the IFSC European Championships in Moscow. âWe didnât know how many more laps we had left in us, and there were a lot of climbing parties on the wall.â. Honnoldâthe first and only climber to free solo El Capitanâholds multiple speed climbing records, and Florine has set the speed record on the Nose eight times. We spoke with Gobright and Reynolds about their record-breaking ascent. What inspired you guys to chase the speed record for the Nose? There were dozens of spots where I could have fallen over 100 feet, and plenty of ledges to strike. In 2013 at the World Cup in Haiyang, China, he broke the world record and registered 06.24 seconds to win the first gold medal in speed climbing in Iranian history. The Indonesian climber blew minds around the world over the weekend when she broke the world record for speed climbing and became the first woman to climb 15 meters in less than seven seconds. A speed climbing wall is an artificial standardised climbing wall and is the main apparatus used for competitive speed climbing.. For such competitions - including those in the Olympics 2020 - the speed climbing wall has been normed by the IFSC in a way that records are comparable. JR: I don't know what's next, but we wonât break our record. Ok, so what happened that day on the wall? After each attempt, we walked down the back of El Capitan and discussed improvements. BG: There was no one up there. @gramicci, A post shared by Brad Gobright (@bradgobright) on Oct 22, 2017 at 2:09pm PDT. I have so much to process before Iâll understand what this experience means to me. All Mt. Maybe the hardest physical thing I've ever done. Blog archive 2020 (29) November (3) Roglic wins La Vuelta on the windy Covatilla; New Angliru TOP 50: Fast new generation arrives ; Ultra-mythical Hugh Carthy conquers the Angliru! Then, last February, Brad broke one of his ankles while climbing near Vegas. As governed by the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing), speed climbing involves an explosive race up a 15m tall wall. Jim Reynolds: El Capitan has always been so inspiring to me. World Records for Penny-Farthing Bicycles - from a quarter-mile to 24 hours. Hill Record: 22.58 (Martin Groves, 2008, British Hill Climb Championship) The Shelsley Walsh Speed Hill Climb is a hillclimb in Shelsley Walsh, Worcestershire, England, organised by the Midland Automobile Club (MAC). âI don't think the record will last long, but it's nice to get the race started again.â. The climb was documented in the new movie The Nose Speed Record , which is … Han's last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing The Nose in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), on June 17, … Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds rest atop El Capitan after a successful speed climb up the Nose. If the Empire State Building and Chrysler Building were stacked next to it, the Nose would loom above them for another 10 stories. Jim Reynolds climbs up the Nose on El Capitan, while Brad Gobright follows close behind. All rights reserved. Reza Alipour set the current Men’s Speed Climbing World recordof 5.48 seconds on the 30th of April 2017 at the Nanjing event of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. Including the approach and descent, Honnold completed the outing in a mere 1:59:57. Racers compete against each other side by side in order to reach the top and ‘ring the bell’ fastest.Speed Climbing is a combination of strength and precision. JR: Usually my âearly morning dreadâ fades by the time I get to the base of the Nose, but since Quinn's accident, I havenât been able to shake my fear until I start climbing. Once we broke into the 2:20s, we knew that any small mistake could blow an attempt. Ein Versuch der „Huberbuam“, Alexander Huber und Thomas Huber, diesen Rekord zu verbessern, ist Gegenstand des preisgekrönten Dokumentarfilms Am Limit von Regisseur Pepe Danquart aus dem Jahr 2006/2007. The first speed ascent of the route was set in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay, with a time of 17 hours and 45 minutes. Everest speed climbing record-claims are time-unverified, meaning that there were no people who timed the speed climbs from the start to the summit. Aries Susanti Rahayu (INA) - IFSC World Cup Xiamen, China. It made me question what we were doing. YiLing Song (CHN) - IFSC World Cup Chongqing, China. Honnold and I discussed how to do gear exchanges quickly, and Hans explained some strategies for the pendulum bit [the âKing Swingâ]. The first time I came to Yosemite, I wanted to get on it. I think I'm moving to Las Vegas for the winter to climb in the desert. By accepting cookies you can optimise your browsing experience. BG: They both gave us great advice. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) – IFSC World … The last time she held the record was in 2017 until in April of that year YiLing Song got 7.101 seconds at the IFSC Climbing … 7.32 . Speedklettern ist eine der drei Hauptdisziplinen des wettkampfmäßigen Sportkletterns. Pairs of experienced climbers are lucky to finish it in four days. Brad short-fixed me on the first four pitches, and I fixed him on a lot of the higher ones. What was your strategy for shaving down time? To the best of my knowledge, these are the most up to date speed climbing records for on the Big Stone, Yosemite's incomparable El Capitan! He was a U.S. National Champion in Difficulty and Speed Climbing, a World Champion in Speed Climbing, and a three-time gold medalist in Speed Climbing at the X Games. JR: We mainly simul-climbed. Had you talked strategy with Alex Honnold and Hans Florine? This is a cool variation called The Uprising. Brad and I started trying again this September once heâd healed. I trust Jimâhe communicates when heâs concerned. 19th October 2019. This site uses cookies. A few minutes after 9:00 a.m. PDT, Gobright pulled himself over the lip of El Capitan and raced to the nearby tree which marks the finish.
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